Hi Jon
I know from experience U-Haul trailers can be scarry over 55 MPH and even slower. Came very close to totaling my son pickup when the trailer carring a pickup began controlling Davids truck on the downhill grade into San Fernando valley from Simi Valley. I was only going 45 MPH. The truck and trailer were jack knifing back and forth before coming under control. I didn't touch the brakes and kept the steering wheel gripped in straight ahead position. I give God the credit for bring everything under control. I really don't think I will ever tow a car on a trailer again.
I have towed cars across the country several times using a home made tow bar with no problems. I made the tow bar longer than most so there would be to problem with the towed vehicle and towing vehicle making contact on sharp turns.
Good luck. I'll see you in Colorado Springs.
Lee O'Dell

A lot depends on what you are towing with. I use my F150 to pull trailers holding cars all over the country. It has the brake control and of course a wire harness setup. Feels really comfortable...keith

My two cents from many years of use and rough experiences- used to drive limited commercial with equipment at or near capacity. Could be very stressful. Set up properly, towing is very similar to regular driving and will not stress the vehicle or operator.

#1. The trailer SHALL have brakes on both axles and your tow vehicle shall have an adjustable brake controller.
#2. Look to the independent rental shops, not the chains. The little guys usually have better trailers. Go online and research the make and trailer model they are offering- see if people like or dislike the product.
#3. Ramps and a beaver tail are usually easier to deal with than a tilt deck for loading and unloading
When looking at the trailer, bring your planned tie downs and make sure they have good points to attach. Some frame members and hook designs really do not work well together. Make sure the trailer tires match- same sizes and all radial or bias. People slap on anything to avoid a charge. My tone may be a little rough but i have had to deal with other peoples bad choices in trailer selections and poorly secured loads. I am still amazed people were not severly injured in a couple incidents. I would also suggest with the terrain in Colorado, your estimated weight being towed should be no more than 75% of the vehicle rated capacity as configured. You need the reserve power and braking if anything hiccups or goes sideways.
Comments above and personal experience led me to buy my own trailer last year- rented on and off for years and even the best option was sometimes a crap shoot with unseen problems until under load.

Here's an interesting thought - why not drive it to Colorado Springs. That's what it was made for - driving.
If not comfortable with the thought of driving on interstates you can always add a couple days to the trip and drive on the "original" interstate highways - U S 6, U S 40, U S 50 and so on.

Hudsonly,
Alex B

I agree with Alex. Why not drive it?

But, if you must trailer it, trailer brakes are a must. Makes all the difference in the world. Particularly with the weight of a Step-Down. Gooseneck trailers are a huge plus, as well.

Thanks for the tips. While I have no doubt the Hornet would easily make it to CO & back, I'd find myself in Divorce Court by Sept '15. My tow car is a 1/2 ton Suburban, equipped for towing. I'll check the local rental yards (great suggestion!). My concern was mainly about car width & tie-downs.
viva Hudson!
Jon

as said before :
- ensure that your car has the right class and towing capacity
- ensure that the ball mount is the right one
- make sure that the trailer is in good shape
- also ensure that the position of your car on the trailer is well balanced and that you are at some 300lb tongue weight
- tie down the car to the trailer - use rigid attachment points on the car and trailer

I have once driven a few hundred miles withe this set up... The trailer was designed for 5.700lb, the Volvo offroad vehicle allone was close to 6000lb with some 1300lb of the trailers empty weight. the small tires where at their limit...

Jon,
Why not see if a fellow club member would loan you their trailer?

Jon, why don't you organize a caravan of Hudsons heading to Colorado in August? In 2009, my wife and I met a couple who borrowed a Suburban and trailer from a friend in northern California so they could haul a 1927 Hudson to Pontiac. The trip took 10 days, arriving just a few minutes before the banquet began! Multiple and costly problems with tires, vehicle and trailer were experienced. Somewhere in Wyoming they called another friend relating their difficulty. When he learned that they were trailering a Hudson, he said, "Why don't you drive that?" 🙂

Make sure you use a 4 wheel trailer and when car is loaded you have 2 to 3 inches clearance between trailer fenders and your rocker panels, if not you will need new panels. Your car and trailer must be level, trailer not facing down or up. You should also have leveling bars and a sway control hook up. Also a control switch to use the trailer brakes. Walt .