Hello! I am trying to get a 1937 Terraplane Engine going again. The engine is free, but I want to be sure everything is lubed up and smooth before I get it going (or try to). I plan on pulling the pan and cleaning it but before that have this question.
A mechanic buddy suggested putting in automatic tranny fluid and diesel mix 50/50 in each cylinder even though it is already free. It turns but I've not yet spun it over all the way or tried, as I really want to save this engine. I thought the fluid treatment would be a good place to start, just in case any corrosion or crud has built up in its long storage. I want to avoid scratching, breaking, etc.
Anybody think the fluid is a bad idea?
Also, it is missing the distributor. I was thinking of spraying some lightweight motor oil in the hole and corking it in an effort to keep it from internally deteriorating while I locate a distributor.
Thanks!
-Jake in MN
Here are some thoughts (maybe someone wiser will chime in and have some better ideas):
Once you get the pan off (which of course you are going to clean, spic and span), you might use a solvent-soaked rag and get up into the engine and clean out the cruddy old oil from every part of the internals that you are able to get to. You may pick up a bit of metal or foreign substance, in the process, which is just as well.
When it comes to the distributor bore, I'd advise against squirting oil down it. Rather, use another clean solvent-soaked rag to get down into the hole and wipe out old oil and crud. Then you can cap it, as you suggest.
I'm not really sure about putting the diesel / transmission fluid in the cylinder. I'll wait for someone wiser to answer that question.
Hi Jake. Good that the engine turns. If it doesn't want to go all the way around, one or more of the valves are stuck probably.
As far as the liquid formula goes, it won't hurt it, but my friend had good luck getting his Hornet started with 'Sea Foam'. (Auto Zone etc.)
I haven't seen one yet that at least some of the rings aren't stuck in the grooves, but a compression test with and without a squirt of oil will answer this. Only way to free them up is solvent, (water is a good solvent) and gently tap them or pry them out It's good to have new ones in there anyway.
It's a lot more work, but in my experience these splashers need to be taken apart all the way down to the mains for checking to make sure the babbitt is still there, and adjusted. I always hesitate but when I go there, I'm glad I did..
email me if you run into a problem. I've been through several of these animals, including the 37 attached.
Thank you for the help and advice Larry and Jon!
Walt here. When you get ready to install the oil pan back on you must fill the oil trough with oil, upper pan so as not to destroy the rod bearings before the oil pump can fill the tray.
Thank You for the tip Walt! I will be sure to do that.
Sam Jackson wrote an article on maintaining the super six - Splasher 6 Deep Maintenance. There is a copy of this document in the online library -
http://hetclub.org/index.php?option=com_booklibrary&task=showCategory&catid=117&letindex=M&sp=1&sort=title&Itemid=1096 - to read it you'll have to download it.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
It's a great article as well ; very detailed and well worth downloading and reading
Thanks Guys! That is a great article!
Please check your P/Ms
Thanks Frank!
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