I see it made its way up to $81, I speculate it is soon to be in the hands of one of our members.

While it would be nice to have an original puller, you do know one can be made from a standard steering wheel puller kit, some bar stock, and two blocks of wood, right?

David, yes I can see where this wouldn't be a very difficult tool to make. More than anything I was curious if anyone knew how close of a match it is to the tool listed is to the recommended tool book. Thanks for your reply.

David,

Have you had your '41 a long time? It looks very much like one that was for sale in New Hampshire a year or two ago. I'm wondering if it is the same car!

Per

Yes, it is the same car. I must say it was very much a fiasco dealing with them and in getting it home. I am happy with the car and the fact it is as complete as it is but wish they had never touched it. I guess as with many things it’s live and learn. I knew to trust my instincts with them but once I had decided on this car I let my better judgment slip. I am very happy to have it and have only been working on getting as much functioning properly as my time allows. I have corrected most of the mistakes they made. I do plan on a complete restoration just don't have everything else out of my shop yet and would like to get a little more road time on it before disassembly. Thanks for asking

David,

They advertised the car on ebay as being in running condition, yet when I went to look at it, the head was off and the brake pedal went to the floor! I put an ad in the New England chapter newsletter (mentioning the engine and the brakes) with their phone number. After many months, I phoned them to see if they still had the car. They didn't.

Did you bring the car home as it was, or did you have them do any work on it?

Per

Per,
When I made my offer I stated I was going to send an appraiser to their shop due to the pictures in the ad I saw of the engine showed many signs of not being in running condition. The guy I spoke with asked if I would find it acceptable if they added to the sales contract that the car would start, run and drive upon delivery. I accepted that and the work they did was out of their pocket. At the time you saw the head off I had already purchased the car. They pulled the head for a couple of stuck valves. WE had words of this. I stated there are other ways of freeing the valves up. The car was delivered starting, running and driving but only in a broad sense. The only brakes functioning were the emergency hand brake, the fuel pump was leaking externally and into the pan as well, they had put a 12 volt battery in with negative ground, cut all wiring except the the switch and coil (12 volt also). The driver had a very hard time getting it off the trailer. When you saw the head off I suspect the hood was off also. They broke a trim piece on the front of the hood and dented the trunk when they assisted loading it on the truck. I am happy with it but wish I had never let them work on it. I bought the var in May and didn't receive it until July. I never filed a complaint but did call back several times after receiving the car and stated what I was not happy with. I asked for the engine splash guards that were on the car in the pictures. I called back and was told that one had been destroyed while being removed and that they would find and send me the other. Of course that never happened.

David,

I saw the car in February. The head was sitting on the engine, but up a little from the block. It was so cold that I didn't investigate. One of the two people that brought me into the warehouse was their mechanic, who said that they had not worked on the car at all. The hood was on the car. They were anxious to sell it, so you hadn't bought it yet!

How did you find out about the car?

Per

Per,
Like I said, I didn’t buy the car until May. I first came across it probably in late March online at their advertising page. I was actually doing a little research on a mid 30's Nash when I saw the pictures of the 41 Commodore. I just kept going back to it looking to see what I could find wrong with it as far as rust and missing items. I actually wasn't looking to buy. Like I said before, I really like the car and didn't give anywhere close to the asking price, but wish they had never done a thing to it. I understand they are in it to make money, but to have a fuel pump putting gas in the oil pan and not to mention ever draining the old oil out is unthinkable. I am very lucky the motor sounds fine. Sorry about ranting.
David

David,

You deserve to rant! I just went to ebay and put in their item number for when the car was listed. The photos are gone, but the text is still there. Among other things, it says, "The engine needs some tinkering, but it runs well". When I first examined the pictures, I noticed that there was no hose from the engine to the top tank of the radiator, so I decided to go and look at the car. They had not accepted A $3750 bid. When I visited, they wanted $8500. I phoned them soon after, and offered to put an ad in the local newsletter, and explained that a price had to be listed. They reluctantly came down to $7000. I hope you paid something more like $3750!

The club is compiling information to help identify various parts. One effort is to get the casting number for each year of engine. Fred Pinder is doing this. He needs the casting number for the 1941 6. Please go to the topic "Submitting information to Alex Burr". On the second page, there's a message from Fred Pinder. I'll write something in that topic now, to bring it into "Recent Topics". He really appreciates getting the information.

Are you familiar with the Hudson clutch? It is a wet clutch, and shouldn't be allowed to run dry.

Per

Per,

I've talked with David and I think he's got the capability to deal with this car mechanically, once he knows a few of the specifics of how they were built. I'm so pleased he's bringing this car back. Others would just get frustrated and dispose of the engine and who knows what else they would do. David will bring it back as it was, with appropriate updates on tires, etc to make it a reliable driver. It's pretty bad the shady way the sellers advertised this car, but at least it's in safer hands now.

David,

What is the condition of your engine? Are you doing work on it?

Per

Tim,
I appreciate the vote of confidence. With some help from you and the others here there is no doubt in time I will get the Commodore at least close to the condition it once was. Thank you,

David

Per,
I haven't done a compression test yet. I have removed and cleaned and repaired the upper and lower oil pans. While the pans were off I did find a piece of cast material resting on the lip of the upper pan. Further investigation showed it is a piece from one of the tappet guides. If i remember correctly there are 5 tappet guides that at are broke. I is apparent that timing between the crank and cam shafts had been off at some point. I could see evidence of interference of the cam lobes and the lower parts of the connecting rods and its at that time I am sure the tappet guide were getting hit as well. Fortunately there isn't and one tappet that doesn't still have at least one good guide currently. The fuel pump has been changed, timing advance has been set, tappets adjusted, NOS voltage regulator, head lights changed and wiring temporarily corrected, generator rebuilt and the torque re-checked on the head. I have drained the clutch and added a bottle of clutch fluid, adjusted the clutch linkage, rebuilt the master cylinder, bled the brakes and spent some time getting the brake linkage adjusted so the E-brake does engage in the lower part of brake travel as it should. The ignition is back to 6 volts and a new 6 volt battery. The engine starts and runs as it should except for needing a carburetor kit. I live a few miles out of town so there have been numerous times I have made a few short drives consisting of a 2 to 3 mile round trip. I have the wiring back together where the had cut it but of course it all will need replaced after I order the appropriate wire for the time. I should have the radiator back this coming week after being re-cored but still need to get a thermostat and new radiator cap. Do you or anyone else here know of a good source for either of these items? I have looked up the part numbers in the Hudson book but that doesn't help me much so far due to I haven't found a good cross reference.