Welcome to the forum, Shorty! Glad to have you on board here at the HET Club Forum! Nice car, post some pics when you get a chance. We all love pics. I'd like to see a pic of your Dodge, as well! Congratulations on your latest acquisition. If you are like other Hudnuts, it won't be your last.

Welcome to the insanity known as Hudsoning - "Come for the cars, stay for the people" us the club's unofficial motto. And you will find a lot of great people in the H-E-T club. If you haven't yet joined I urge you to do so. I've been around for 45 years so that's got to tell you something about the quality of the outfit.
If you need a shop manual, or other manuals there is, in addition to a virtual library and a lot of manuals in the club store, but there is also an online library that a very nice nutcase :woohoo: has been building for the club - that is at:
http://hetclub.org/burr/lithomepage.htm
You will also find a lot of answers to your questions here also.
So welcome aboard.

Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN

Thanks for the warm welcome..
Two pictures attached. These were done after the car was unloaded from the truck.

Today I have moved the car from the outside position for some 50 miles to a dry car storage. That has been quite an experience. The first few miles on another continent for the car. And strange for me as I had to get accustomed to the sounds and behaviour of the car. The motor runs well, it was around freezing outside so it took a while not to stall away.

What was really new to me :
- when you drive and take the foot of the throttle - the motor reduces rpm, but there is no deceleration effect. I.e. I had to decelerate only with the breaks. It drives like a MTB-bicycle. When you pedal it accelerates, if you stop pedaling the bike keeps on rolling.

How do you get that setup to at least break to a certain extend with the revs of the motor?

What I also found out today is that most of the electrical elements do not work (break light, head lights, fuel indicator, horn). On the other hand I found a bulb hidden behind the inner ceiling above the wind screen that permanently burns. That has been the one killing already two battery loads.
I have now installed quick detachable battery clamps to disconnect the battery when not in use.

Another question:
left below the steeing column there is a pull button. what is that for ? I thought that is a choke...., Today I drove with the button pushed in.

Regarding manuals:
I have ordered the shop manuals on ebay - they are on the way.

Some pics from my Dodge - see both attached...
I also took some videos today - will follow!

Cheers
shorty

Shorty,

Welcome!

What information do you have from that piece of paper? The location and the date of the meet would be useful. Also, does it look like the present color of the car is what it might have been then? If not, look for the old color is on some sheltered part, such as the firewall under the hood. This might stir the memory of someone who was at that meet.

Another thing would be any clue as to where the car was located in years past, such as oil change stickers.

Per

Shorty,

Your new message with the nice pictures just appeared.

The cable which you mention is for overdrive. Pull the cable all the way out (with the car not moving). Then, you will have the motor slow you down when you take your foot off the gas.

When the overdrive is on (the cable pushed in, as you drove it), the car has the "free-wheeling" that you mentioned. However, above about 22 miles per hour, the free wheeling is supposed to get locked out and the overdrive gets connected. Since there are many electrical things that are not working, most likely the electrical connection that connects the overdrive is not working. In this case the free wheeling is there at any speed.

It is very nice that you have overdrive, since it will allow you to drive faster than if you did not have it, because it effectively gives you 4th gear.

Per

Shorty,
The button that you thought was a choke is the overdrive control. Pushing it in and driving at speeds below the "cut-in" speed allows the engine to drop to an idle without being connected to the rest of the drive train....."free-wheeling", whenever you take your foot off the throttle. If the OD isn't functional at this time (due to some problem), pull that button to the outward position (while not moving) which will lock it in "direct" while you figure things out.
As a test, push it in, drive up to about 50 kph, let off the throttle and see if it "drops into" overdrive. Engine braking will be evident until your speed is below the "cut-out" speed of about 35 kph where it will resume free-wheeling.
F

Hmmmm, I wasn't quite quick enough on the submit button!

Thanks for the useful feedback. Good to have overdrive, as it has been an option...
The original color of the car likely has been a type of bronze. at least that color is visible in the engine compartment...

Does anyone have a picture or clue for me regarding that bulp on the center top of the windscreen (right above the white knob of the antenna?

I would also like to see how that fuel filler door is connected. I assume that there is something missing on mine to keep it in open position.

Overall am really fond of the Hudson technique. The starter button and the inside release lever for the hood is something that 65 years later is state of the art. On my Mopars none of that is there...

Regarding electrical issues : are there fuses that I can check? Door lights are working, also the indicator lamps in the gauges, Any clue where typical short cuts appear.
One week ago the break lights did still work...

Cheers
shorty

Shorty,

One more thing. When you get the manuals, you will see that your car has a "wet clutch". It is important that you make sure it is not dry. The manual will explain how to drain it, and how to fill it. It requires about 170 milliliters (6 fluid ounces) of fluid. Most people use automatic transmission fluid. (Many years ago, Hudson recommended using half motor oil and half kerosene. Then Hudson supplied its own liquid, called "Hudsonite").

When you drain the clutch, catch the liquid that comes out and measure how much there is. If not much liquid comes out then you should check it again fairly soon, so you will know if there is a leak.

Per

Shorty:

I know of at least three Hudson "Step-Downs" in Germany: a 1948 Super Six in Kiel, a 1949 Super Six in Grevenbroich and a 1952 Commodore 8 in Schoenberg. If you would like to contact the owners I can give you their addresses.

Shorty,

I had an old brake switch on a 1949 Hudson fail very soon after I started using it, after it had been stored for about 50 years. Take the wires off your brake switch (located at the rear end of the master cylinder) and put a short wire to connect the wires. If the brake lights work, get a new switch. These switches were used on Ford pickup trucks, and are easy to get.

Per

thanks for the different hints! Will be useful!

Here is a link to videos taken today...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-OHZYHTHAI&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-B2IPHSWgiU&feature=youtu.be

That's awesome, Dirk! Thanks for sharing. Are you having a blast, yet? 🙂

Dirk - You need to rebuild your carburetor or have it done. It doesn't sound like the choke is working properly and the accelerator pump definitely needs to be replaced.