Starter MCH-6204 was used in the following:
1951, 1952, 1953 4-5-7C, 1954 4-5-D
I don't have any info on changing to 12 volt, but somebody will come up with the answer.

Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN

I have a stock 12 volt starter in my 12 volt 1953 Hornet with Hydramatic: 1955-56 Hornets #MDF6012.

Hite had the field coils to rebuild my starter and convert to 12V. Others are using modern 12v starters adapted to Hudson blocks. Both reportedly work well.

I believe the modern version of starter used, requires you to weld the ring gear to the flywheel. If you don't, it eventually drives the ring gear off the flywheel. Somebody on here probably has done this?.

Jason, the 12v field coils for your starter are Ace ST-33-X 12V. Ace isn't in business any more, but your local starter-generator-alternator shop can cross-reference the Ace to a current supplier number.

Do not try to run your starter on 12v without the conversion. The 6v Hydramatic starters are notorious for breaking the "nose" housing if operated on 12v.

I've been reading thru the posts on this subjects and I'm still not quite sure what's accomplished going to a 12 volt starter. These cars were designed to run on 6 volts.
That said I will agree that better headlights can be obtained with 12 vs 6 volt; ie brighter. These cars were, after all designed and built in an era when we didn't have the light pollution we have now.
But, getting back to 6 vs 12 volt starters. Over the years I've had a few cars that were 6 volt (1950 Dodge, 1949 Chevy, 1953 Hudson etc). I rarely had a problem starting these cars in cold weather - and believe me it can get cold in January in Maine!!!!! These cars were parked outdoors too as I had no garage at the time. There was one morning when the 1950 Dodge I had refused to start - but the temp that night dropped to somewhere around 25 below zero - and even 12 volt cars weren't starting either.
I think it's a matter of maintaining the car in question - regular tune-ups, clean spark plugs and wiring terminals. Yes, these cars are a lot of work if you want them to run as designed. When one owns one of these cars you cannot treat them like you would a new car. The old timers weren't really designed to be maintenance free - more maintenance intensive, so to speak - like todays cars. You literally have to move your mind back to the era these cars ruled the roads. Sort of like history - you cannot begin to understand conditions during, say WW II until you read enough books to be able to put your mind into that era.

Hudsonly,
Alex B

Alex, I'm in full agreement that "so it'll start easier" is the wrong reason to do a 12v changeover. These cars spin over and start very nicely on 6v if everything is up to snuff. That said, there are some valid reasons to change to 12v: brighter lights and the ability to easily find a headlight or other bulb when "on the road." (Some of the 6v stuff is getting a bit hard to find when out of one's local area). A major reason for going to 12v is to accommodate install of A/C or other modern equipment. And when done properly, a conversion to 12v just makes everything operate a bit better, and a bit of power loss in a corroded connection isn't quite as critical.

I use an Orpin Model B series/parallel switch on my '31 Franklin. Starts on 12 Volts and runs on 6 volts; starter turns faster & I am happier~~~

Tricky little solenoid: follow the circuits

If you live in a city with driving at night time in stop and go driving you better have 12 volts an a alternator or you are dead meat at night time. I know as I was left with a dead battery on route 101 going south at night time in stop and go traffic. I had to pull over and run the engine for 20 minutes to get the head lights back on and return home. A new 12volt battery and every thing was done for 12 volts and have never had any more problems. Drove my car across country over 12 times, thanks to 12 volts. Walt.

Two years ago I ditched the generator/regulator for a one wire 6 Volt positive ground Alternator 0n my 52 Hornet. The headlights are much brighter and dash lights brighter. I can easily read the instrument panel gauges at night now. The alternator continues to charge the battery at idle whereas the generator will not. I wish I had changed to alternator when I bought the car. I was feed up trying to keep it all original. I needed reliability rather than frustration I was having with generator//alternator problems. I have not had a charging problem since. And it always starts easily.

At the time Bill had been building alternators for 29 years. He can build one for 37 amp, 42 amp, 50 amp and 60 amp for same price. The cost then was $134.95. Very nice and informative person to talk with.

His phone number 620-228-1477 or E-Mail howent@hotmail.com

Whenever I get around to A/C then it will get 12 volt alternator.

Lee O'Dell

Lee, you referred to "Bill" in your comment. What is Bill's last name and do you think he still does alternators?

thanks

J

"Google" 6V alternators
http://store.alternatorparts.com/alternators6voltpositiveground.aspx
http://alternatorparts.com/6-volt-alternators-kits-parts.html
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=6+volt+alternator
http://high-amp.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=20_17
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55923

lots on eBay>>> http://www.ebay.com/bhp/6-volt-alternator

Hi J Lombard

When I clicked on submit when I wrote a reply to you last week my computer crashed. Apparently my reply did not get posted. Sorry taken so long to reply again. I came down with a virus, today is my first day out of bed and a friend got my computer working again.

I do not know Bills last name. He must still be in business. I saw on the post by Richard Dryman that Bills alternator picture was the first ad on ebay. www.ebay.com/bhp/6-volt-alternator. I know it was his because of his business location Iola, KS

If you call him directly (620-228-1477) rather than buy through e-bay the price may be less since he would not have to pay e-bay on the sale. The adjustable bracket is very time consuming to get it adjusted right. Once set up I welded it. If I had it to do over again I would have ordered the alternator minus the multi-piece adjustable bracket and made my own. I don't recall Bill telling me how much less the Alternator cost would have been without the bracket.

Like I mentioned before Bill is more than willing and helpful answering any questions you may have. I believe he included shipping at time I bought mine. Since the e-bay ad says shipping is included, shipping must still be part of the deal.
You will not regret tossing the generator for the Alternator.

This is the business card information I tried to submit in reply to your post last week.

CHEEP WILLIE'S
29 Years in Business
ALTERNATORS & STARTERS
415 S. State St. Iola, KS 66749
620 228 1477 (ask for Bill)
E-Mail howent@hotmail.com
1 Wire High Output Alternators are our Specialty

Jason

Since Bill also does starters he may do 6 Volt to 12 Volt starter conversions. just a phone call away to find out.

Lee O'Dell