You can connect the vacuum gauge to the port where the wipers are for direct manifold vacuum. You should also consider doing an accurate compression test. Obtaining this will give you information now, and if you keep that info, future ability to diagnose a possible problem.

Doug, Walt here, did you receive my e-mail. Walt.

For those that want to see the idle air control system for the WGDs, look at 6B-4 in the attached manual. Also read some of the troubleshooting on the same page- may help chase down idle-vac problems.

Tryi

ng to attach

OK I give up, here's the link. Check out 6B-4 http://www.pontiacsafari.com/55/ShopManual/6B%20-%20Engine%20Fuel.pdf

In reference to timing my motor seems to want 2-4 BTDC, but Walt will say keep it zero. I don't know if my case is affected by different cam, head with sommender grooves, headers, or what. It's just the way it is.

Regarding the timing mark - I have rigged a pointer at the front vibration damper and attached a "glued on" scale on the dampener. Makes it much easier to check timing. FYI, I found a product that you can stick on the vibration dampener and it shows degrees of advance or retard. It comes with several strips that are calibrated for different diameter dampeners. I got it at a local speed shop. I'll try to find the name of the product and post it on a later reply.

Ed

My diameter was 7.4". Just ordered a 7.25" timing tape from JEGS, # 555-40720. Error will be 2 percent or 10.2 degrees when showing 10.0 degrees. Closer than standing on head reading the flywheel.Cost around $4.50. But will have to make pointer.
Note: I do have an advance-dial timing light so I only need TDC mark but will be easier and I like to do these kinds of things.

When I say stay at top dead center that is for the Hudson stock cam and no modification to the engine. When you start to add things to the engine then you have to start playing with timing and carburetor. Walt.

From the 1951 Hudson Mechanical Procedure Manual: "Spark setting may be advanced during continuous high altitude operation or with fuels of high octane rating of 80 or higher."

With today's fuel, even Regular (87 octane), one is wasting engine performance and fuel consumption with the timing set at TDC.

Hi Park, et al - yes, that sounds right, but do we know that the octane rating system used today matches the one from 1951? I know every pump I've seen uses the R+M/2, or the average of the research and motor numbers, but I don't know what was in vogue at the time the 1951 manual was written. Anyone out there know?

OK guys, as promised, I took my car out for a test drive after taking care of the idle/slow speed circuit. The vacuum at idle is ~5, so quite low as it's supposed to be. Nevertheless, that was one terrible ride as I could not keep the car running except at idle or very high engine speed. I even blew out my muffler when a huge backfire occurred. I think I have found the problem, sort of. I hooked up a vacuum pump to the vacuum advance. Once i get up to about 15" or of vacuum the engine cuts out - and - this is the good part, the timing light stops flashing. Is it possible to have a short in the distributor caused by the vacuum advance?

Yes, Very common. The wire going to the points often has the insulation worn. When the vacuum advance moves the breaker plate is shorts out. Exploded a muffler on my way to Daytona beach in 1965. Loud trip. Little friction tape cured the short so I was able to complete the trip.

"Ric"

OK, so here's the final story...I think. I didn't see anything wrong inside the distributor, but i did notice that the post onto which the wire to the distributor attaches seemed to be loose. I'm thinking that when the vacuum advance kicked in, the wire must have been tugged to a point where it was not making good contact, shutting down the spark plugs. Then, when i stepped on the gas, the vacuum dropped, the breaker plate shifted back to the point where the wire made good contact and BAM there went my muffler. So, I tightened everything down, reset the gap, re installed the distributor and took the car for another test. Seemed great, other than the noise of a blown out muffler. Good power, smooth operation and no hesitation. Just in time to put the car away for the winter.

Michael, I think you'll find the difference trivial. Regardless, I'll guarantee that if you set it at 5 degrees advanced, you'll be surprised in the difference. And it won't ping.