I guess we'll all start throwing out suggestions, but it's really just shooting in the dark.

1. You're SURE that the timing hasn't been changed?

2. Are you sure of the condition and power of the battery? If it's weak, then there might be a (weak) spark but most of the current will be used in just turning the starter.

3. You're sure that all the battery and ground connections are "bright and tight"? And this includes a separate ground strap from engine to frame, and battery to engine?

4. Priming should have produced at least a cough! But, there is also the chance that there's "crud" in the gasoline tank, or the lines. Do you have an inline filter and is it full of trash?

5. Have you double checked the spark plug wires to make sure you didn't possibly cross them during replacement?

Remove the spark plugs and make a compression test. Timing gear may have failed. Walt.

Jon,

1. I'm sure about that I didn't change the timing. I didn't move the car or engine, and the rotor and distributor are in the exact same position as they were before I pulled the distributor.

2. The battery is fairly new, and I recharge it on the bench.

3. I removed the braided strap to the engine, cleaned all contact surfaces till they were shiny, applied dialectric grease and reassembled. Same with the ground wire to the battery and negative connection at battery.

4. I did get a cough after priming, but not much. I need to add an inline fuel filter. I did clean the screen in the carb gas intake, it didn't have much crud. I should do the same with the screen on the fuel pump, but its hard to reach from the top.

5. I'll triple check the placement of the ignition wires on the distributor.

Walt - I'll check compression next.

Is it ok to use starting fluid as a final test of the ignition system?

Thanks,
Josh

When you replaced the plug wires, did you do them one at a time? It's easy to put them back wrong if you do them all at once.. either one step advanced or one retarded. Since you did get a "cough" once, makes me think they
are one step retarded. Please check the timing again.

I did them all together because I was replacing the distributor cap and pulling the distributor. I documented all the locations and positions before doing so. I'll triple check my work.

The timing position of the distributor is fully forward, on the most advanced position in the slotted connection to the quadrant. This is how I found it, and it was running (though not too well under load).

Old cars that have been sitting sometimes have or develop a few stuck valves that will keep them from starting. Do a thumb to spark plug hole compression test to check this.

I checked my work, and tried starting this morning, but no luck. Spray cleaned the carb for good measure. Came back a few hours later, and it started right up. I ran it for an hour; it was running far more aggressively than before I replaced the ignition parts. I had to lower the idle speed that had been raised before I did the ignition work.

At least I didn't violate the code "First, do no harm".

Still, the Commodore is an ever-unfolding mystery. I'm not sure why it works, and why it doesn't work. Thanks for everyone's help!

From your talk, it sounds like you flooded the engine Gas dried out so engine started. The next time you think it's flooded, hold gas peddle to the floor and spin engine but do not release your foot from the gas pedal and when it starts slowly release the peddle. Walt.

How old is the fuel?

Half the tank is 5 months old, the rest is three months old. I have added STP fuel cleaner to dry out some possible water. I suspected some water because now it will run for a few minutes, and then stop. Sometimes it runs roughly, other times smoothly, but never more than a few minutes before it needs to be restarted. I replaced the carb today with a rebuilt carb, and it did the same thing. I may replace the fuel tomorrow.