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Oil Tubes

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(@Josh Keller)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

I need to replace the tubing to and from the oil filter for my 1948 Commodore 8. What product should I look for, and what is a good source?

Many thanks,
Josh


 
Posted : 07/10/2014 4:27 pm
(@hudtruck)
Posts: 68
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Josh, Fram oil filters used "rubber" lines on the inlet and outlet, but I don't trust rubber. Only a few seconds of a failure in those lines will cause a serious engine issue even with the splash oil system of the 8s(4-12PSI). I installed ridged copper,( or better yet conifer tubing). It is way less likely to have a catastrophic failure with solid lines, then with rubber. It is easy the bend to conformity. Rubber lines are sold on Ebay. They must be OIL PRESSURE lines with factory crimped fittings, not fuel line with hose clamps that you can buy in Ace Hdwr.


 
Posted : 09/10/2014 6:49 am
(@nstuecklenwi-net)
Posts: 202
Reputable Member Registered
 

There have been gazillions of oil filters served and returning by flexible lines intended for the purpose. Ask Fram. Ask GM. Ask Ford.

Failures of soft lines are, to say the least, rare. Hard lines risk being in tune with some other vibration and failing catastrophically.

Of course, a qualified mechanical engineer can make a reasonable estimate of the resonant frequency of hypothetical hard lines, and one can adjust. In fairness, if the hard lines are short, they are not likely to be in tune with engine vibrations, and will be OK.

Why not go with those who have a huge background of experience with soft lines? We're not talking the second choice way of doing things, but instead the regular way.


 
Posted : 09/10/2014 9:08 am
(@Josh Keller)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

I guess the other advantage of soft lines as that they can be fixed with black electrical tape, as I found they were in my car! Can I get these rubber lines in most auto supply stores (NAPA, Autozone, etc)?


 
Posted : 09/10/2014 9:17 am
(@m-patterson56)
Posts: 452
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I agree that a "hard" line, esp. copper, is a greater risk, however neither is much risk. Virtually any modern automotive re-enforced rubber line is more than sufficient if it has a pressure rating well above operating pressure. NAPA, for instance, has hose with a 50 psi rating......not enough. I believe the next step is 250 psi......overkill but that's good.
The cross-sectional area of a 1/4 ID hose is ~.050 In.Squared, resulting in an axial thrust of < 2.5 lbs @ 50 psi. You could pull that hard with Mr. Winky ....you could. I wouldn't try it.
In any case, your most likely culprit will be abrasion damage so simply keep them routed and restrained so that it doesn't happen.
Frank


 
Posted : 09/10/2014 10:06 am
(@hudtruck)
Posts: 68
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I do agree that it is a must to use flex line when the filter canister is mounted on the firewall, like my friends Graham. But no vibration will affect either flex or hard line if the canister is mounted on the engine such as stepdowns, but again the Fram kit( as in the Master Parts Catalog) includes flexible lines. My concern was heat or abrasion causing failure on the flex lines. I'm am curious... what are the lengths of the two rubber hoses on the Fram filter?


 
Posted : 09/10/2014 10:55 am
(@Josh Keller)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

The oil filter is mounted on the firewall on my 1948 Commodore 8, but the mounting bracket doesn't look original. I'll measure the lines in the AM.


 
Posted : 09/10/2014 12:17 pm
(@Josh Keller)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

Hoses are 14" and 18" lengths. Inside diameter looks like 1/8"


 
Posted : 10/10/2014 1:28 am
(@hudbob)
Posts: 117
Estimable Member Registered
 

Josh,

Take your hoses to a NAPA Auto Parts Store and have them look in the Eaton-Weatherhead Catalog for matching hoses http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Hydraulics/HoseHoseFittings/

If you have a Tompkins Industries near you they can make them up while you wait http://www.tompkinsind.com

Be sure that you get the same end fittings that are on your existing hoses.

Hope this helps.

John Forkner


 
Posted : 10/10/2014 2:41 am

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