[b]Hudson spark plugs (gleaned from web posts)[/b]
• 7XPacemaker October 2006 Flag
Posts: 332Platinum Member
"best of the best" are.....Don't shoot me.....NGK plugs. They take the biggest beating and show the least amount of wear. I used to be on a sprint car pit crew and we experimented with all different types of plugs. We could run a heat and the NGK plugs looked like new after the heat was over. I have yet to run them in my coupe because I don't need to change them yet. The best all-around plug in MY opinion is the NGK.
[u]Champion H10C to NGK B6L
Champion H11 to NGK B4L
Champion H12 to NGK B4L
Champion J7 is the NGK B6S
The new Champion equivalent for the J-7 is RJ8C, stock #871.
• Does anyone know the correct # sparkplugs for the 212 splasher engine?
• bill a June 2006 Flag
Posts: 1,570Platinum Member
Champion H 10 Or H 10c, That’s All I Use On Splashers And All Stepdowns. Set At -32 Thousands, Bill Albright [/u]
You can find those at Wal-Mart, in the sparkplug section, new # is Champion 855-1, small engine sparkplug. Cost is about $ 1.40 each. Hudsonly, Lou Cote
The first thing that happen was that Champion changed their part numbering, a H11 is now a 844. The second thing is that the Autolite catalog says that a 1936 Hudson Eight should take a 295 non-resistor or 306 resistor plug. This is the old Champion J7 or J8. The third thing is it looks like the spark plug companies are reducing the number of plugs they make, so one plug now covers a number of old plugs, like the Autolite 295 covering the old Champion J7 and J8. The Autolite catalog says the gap should be 0.025 inch. So 0.022 inches is fine.
The H-11 spark plug is 1/2 inch reach and the J plugs are 3/8 reach. Here is Hudson's list on spark plugs..1933 to 1938 Terraplanes cast iron heads take Champion J-8. 1936 to 1938 Hi-Compression Heads Take Champion H-10. 1934 to 1938 Hudson's cast iron heads take Champion J-8. 34 to 38 with Hi-compression heads take Champion H-10. J plugs are set at 0.025, and H plugs set at 0.032. That H plug in the wrong head will bend the exhaust valve. Walt.
terraplane8
I have looked in to this issue of what reach plugs to use on my highish compression '36 T with 112 head. I had both the standard '36 head and the 112 head on the bench to compare, with the various plugs screwed in and hence measurable as to exact projection/recession. I do not believe a 3/8" reach plug in this particular application is right as the plug is recessed to a ridiculous extent which must have a poor effect on flame-front propagation and hence an increased tendency to knock. The 1/2" reach plug fits my application perfectly with ample valve clearance. Of course fine tuning of reach can be achieved by using different plug gaskets. Interestingly my 7.3:1 engine won't knock no matter what the timing and that is on NZ 91 which is US 87.
You can search my posts here on the topic by the words "terraplane compression" plus my user name in the username box "terraplane8" which will bring up all relevant posts of mine detailing my results.
I have found NGK B6HS plugs to be excellent, and would not think of using anything else. My Terraplane flies along amazingly well too, and climbs hills about as well as my T8.
I pulled some other plugs out of the car and found three sizes were used at what I expect was the last tune up. J 11, H 10 and an NGK plug. I decided to go online and check out the specks on the various plugs and do some cross checking. After some review I found the Champion site and they suggested the Champion Copper 592 plug as the correct plug for my engine. There was a phone reference and I called the guy. He is a Hudson guy and made the decision based on the engineering and fitting the plugs to the actual head. The plug has a 3/8 inch reach (9.50 MM) Put them in and they seem to be working great
[b]Hudson sending units-[/b]
[u]JetMan-[/u]
The '48, '49 & '50 Hudson six used a very different temp sender than the '51 thru '55 - The hole the sender screws into is quite a bit larger than that of the later "wide block" sixes.
1939 thru 1950 is Guaranteed Parts Co. No."TSU28"
[u]Ron S[/u]
48-50 use part# F159058. The 51-55 use F304502
[u]mssafar[/u]
NAPA and they crossed Guaranteed Parts Co. No."TSU28" to TS6153.
Apparently it's the same part for a the 1966-68 Ford Bronco, etc
Flea'd from Canada Hudson forum
http://www.hudsonmotorcar.org/index.php
51 Commodore restoration ---
more interchange part #'s
I would just buy new wheel cylinders do not worry about taking them apart. Best to replace all of that. Here is all the part numbers you will need.
Brake Part Numbers.
Front Brake Hose: Wagner F24070, Raybestos BH19015, NAPA UP 36794
This hose is 14.1 inches long.
Master Cylinder: Wagner 3081, Raybestos MC3081, NAPA UP 3081
Master Cylinder Repair Kit: NAPA UP 138
Right Front Wheel Cylinder(1 1/8 inch bore): Wagner 18291, Coni-Seal WC13221, Bendix 33221, NAPA UP 18291
Left Front Wheel Cylinder(1 1/8 inch bore): Wagner 18290, Coni-Seal WC13220, Bendix 33220, NAPA UP 18290
Right Rear Wheel Cylinder(15/16 inch bore): Wagner 59241, Coni-Seal WC13601, Bendix 33601, NAPA UP 17509
Left Rear Wheel Cylinder(15/16 inch bore): Wagner 59240, Coni-Seal WC13600, Bendix 33220, NAPA UP 17510
Front Axle Seal: Chicago Rawhide CR15960, National 482253, NAPA NOS 15960
Outer Rear Axle Seal: Chicago Rawhide CR17310, NAPA NOS 17310, Victor 62010
Rear Brake Shoes NAPA TS TS55
Front Brake Shoes NAPA UP AE338
Front Inner Bearing race Timken 15123 NAPA BRG BR15123
Front Inner Bearing cup Timken 15245 NAPA PGB PBR15245
Front Outer Bearing race Timken 09067 NAPA BRG BR09067
Front Outer Bearing cup Timken 09195 NAPA BRG BR09195
Front Seal National 42364S NAPA NOS 15649
doors of 1948-53 Hudsons interchange, as well as the bolt-on quarter panels from 1948-51 and 1952-53. The 1954 is welded only quarters.
Ken Cates has his site back up and has a some interchange info as well as other good Hudson info.
http://hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/Hudson%20Parts%20Interchange.htm
Hudson 308 transmission adapters-
http://www.transmissionadapters.com/Hudson308.htm
http://www.wilcap.com/hudson.html#308350AT
[b]OD Solenoids--[/b]
[b]6-VOLT[/b]
Solenoid [b]4AR-9-62[/b] 1936-’49 Packard and
[b]1947 Hudson[/b]
• [b]4AR-10B-62 1946-’55 Nash/Rambler and
1955 Hudson[/b]
• 7AR-10B-62 1951-’54 Packard and 1951-’55
Plymouth
• 3AR-10B-62 1941-’49 Lincoln, 1947-’48
Kaiser and 1948-’49 Ford/Mercury
• [b]AR-10D-62 1948 Hudson[/b]
• AR-10B-62 1947-’48 Studebaker, 1946-’63
Jeep/Willys
• [b]10AR-10B-62[/b] (Ford # FAA-6916A) 1949-
’56 Ford and 1949-’54 Mercury
• 6AR-10B-62 [b]1950-’54 Hudson[/b]
• Nash #3104629 1938-’46 Nash single-post
• 31227796 1938-’46 Nash dual-post
• 3123433 1946-’49 Nash
[b]12-VOLT[/b]
Solenoid AR-10H-62 1955-’57 Packard and
1956-’59 Plymouth
• Also 1956-’63 Studebaker, Hudson, Nash/
Rambler and 1955-’56 Chevy
• 1AR-10H-62 1957-’63 Chevy
• AR-10F-62 1959-’63 Studebaker trucks
• AR-11-62 (Ford B6A-6916A) 1956-’65 Ford
_________________
You list two different grease seals,which ones fit?
The rear wheel cylinders are listed with two different sizes also
What would be the proper spark plug for a 1950 Pacemaker 232 engine and what would be the gap?
Geoff Blake
[quote="Geoffrey Blake" post=4569]What would be the proper spark plug for a 1950 Pacemaker 232 engine and what would be the gap?
Geoff Blake
Geoff, 1948-1952 shop manual in the online library says H-8's set to .032"
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
:cheer: Thanks for that information, Alex. Will you be at the Eastern Regional in June?
Geoff
[quote="Geoffrey Blake" post=4611]:cheer: Thanks for that information, Alex. Will you be at the Eastern Regional in June?
Geoff
Won't be making the Eastern Regional - considering the distance, motels, etc, and $119 a night at the regional it's way beyond what I can afford. I'm trying to put enough together to get to French Lick - I have a room-share for that so not to bad on hotel expense. I realize that prices are going up on everything, but these meets are getting way out of what I can afford. Sad to say.
Hudsonly,
Alex B
Kerry, where did you find a place to arc-fit the shoes? Everyone around here (Charlotte) quit offering that ages ago.
Park,
the car I just finished up with, a 58 Packard Hawk, had new brake shoes and good drums. The brakes sucked. So I did a search and found this company
http://brakematerialsandparts.webs.com/
and sent them the shoes to be re-lined with their material and send the front drums for them to arc-fit the shoes to.
I could not find anyone local to arc them.
The brakes work excellent now.
Familiar story. I find it interesting that "arcing" of shoes is largely considered to be an unnecessary step in brake jobs. In some cases, of course, it is, but typically shoes and drums aren't a good match for radius after le-lining/turning and the notion that they will "wear-in" is a dangerous attitude. You are smart to have the patience to seek out someone who will still do it. Call me picky but brakes need to work correctly from the first application.
Frank
One of my questions is did they really bother doing this at the factory? Seems doubtful. Even at Hudson there was a limit. Get the product out the door.
They would not have done this at the factory, because all new parts would have been the correct sizes to start with. We have to do it on our 60+ year old cars because of wear.
Tim, Don't know if the factory did or not.
I know when I got the shoes and drums back from that company (brakematerialsandparts.webs.com/)
and installed them that I had totally different-much better brakes than I had with the other new shoes and newly dressed drums. Now part of this could be the brake shoe material they used, but the braking was much better.
The down side is having to ship them back and forth as I could not find anyone around my area to do it.
Leave a reply
