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Hudson Super Eight "Hudo" around the world. Help

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(@tallent-r)
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The bearing can fail for reasons other than an absence of oil.

[i]Das Lager kann aus anderen Gründen als eine Abwesenheit von Öl fehlschlagen -- [?][/i]


 
Posted : 03/09/2014 8:32 am
(@Patrik Heinrichs)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

But if the o

oildipper tube does not exists any more like Hudos Nr7 it is highly possible that this was the reson?
Question ist how das this cast part just disappears

Patrik


 
Posted : 03/09/2014 11:31 pm
(@Patrik Heinrichs)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

But if the o

oildipper tube does not exists any more like Hudos Nr7 it is highly possible that this was the reson?
Question is how das this cast part just disappears

Patrik


 
Posted : 03/09/2014 11:32 pm
(@tallent-r)
Posts: 1825
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Yes, the oil dipper tube has broken off! It probably hit something in the engine. Did you find the broken dipper in the oil dipper tray (the upper oil pan)? That is surely the reason that your bearing has failed!

So, you cannot renew this connecting rod with new babbitt and re-install it. You must find another connecting rod to replace it.

The Hudson parts book says that all connecting rods from 1930 to 1937 should be usable in your engine. This will make it somewhat easier to find a good replacement, because rods from the later 1930's are easier to find. HOWEVER you must use a "right" or a "left" rod -- you must match exactly the rod you removed. ALSO the bearing size must fit the crankshaft journal. If your crankshaft has been machined to a smaller diameter, a "standard" sized rod bearing will no longer work. You will then need an undersized bearing, which should be available. You must measure the crankshaft for the exact size.

In an emergency, I believe it may be possible to continue on your trip with 7 cylinders working, but you must remove the "bad" rod and piston. You would also want to stop the petrol from entering the "bad" cylinder, so that you do not dilute the engine oil with petrol coming from the carburetor. I think that when you remove the piston, there will be no vacuum pulling the gasoline into the cylinder through the valves, but I have never attempted to do this. So I do not know!


 
Posted : 04/09/2014 4:10 am
(@tallent-r)
Posts: 1825
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Please note that once again you have two separate forum threads open, on this subject! So, you must carefully check each of the threads to make sure that you are seeing all the replies that have been posted!


 
Posted : 04/09/2014 4:57 am
(@tallent-r)
Posts: 1825
Noble Member Registered
 

Your crankshaft is quite worn!

In "inches", your crankshaft journal should measure 1.9375 inches, but you measure it at 1.93 inches. That is about .0045 inches of wear. A clearance of .0015 inches is acceptable -- but you have .0045 inches! This is too much!

In "millimeters", your crankshaft journal should have a 49.212mm diameter. However, you have measured your crankshaft at 49.05mm. This is a clearance of .162mm. The recommended clearance is only .038mm! So your clearance is too much!

Although it is possible to find "new" connecting rods still, they will be of a "standard" bearing size. They will not be available for such a loose clearance as you car.

(If you want to try to replace the rod, look for a new rod from a 1930 to 1937 Hudson, Essex, or Terraplane automobile. It must be a "right" rod not a "left" rod. It would probably have Hudson part number #65305, 38546, 44705. Some of these rods are made with shims (or spacers) which enables them to be adjusted to better fit the crankshaft. Others were made with no shims -- they will interchange but cannot be adjusted. I do not know where you could find a rad at this time, but there is always a chance that some auto parts store (in one of the countries you visit) has some old ones for sale.

As I mentioned earlier, you can disable the "bad" cylinder so that it is not used, then you can proceed on your journey with only 7 cylinders in operation:

1. Remove the cylinder head.

2. Remove the connecting rod and the piston in #7.

3. Remove the intake and exhaust valves from #7

4. Remove the "lifters" from both valves. This is the part which rides against the camshaft and actually pushes up the valve.

5. When the lifters are removed, you can replace both valves and their springs. This will hold the valves shut (since the "lifters" will no longer open them). And this will prevent petrol vapor from entering cylinder #7, and gradually diluting the oil in the car, which would ruin your engine!

In this way you may proceed on your journey, until you reach a mechanic who can properly fix your engine -- possibly in the USA if you intend to visit it.


 
Posted : 04/09/2014 6:31 am
(@Patrik Heinrichs)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

Hi Jon,

I had a long call with dave kostansek 0014402934079 he say he has a new conrod is is willing to ship. Probably you are much better with this and could call him to discuss specifics about the part, it is 2:52 in the morning here an in Europe everybody is asleep..

He is going to leave home tomorrow (your time) but if anybody is next to him or on his route...

Have to figure out how and where to ship but have to wait 7-8 hours...

here is my email
heinrichs@ddb.net
skype ddborg

Oh and about the worn crankshaft, isn't it the good thing with all the shims, that I could adjust it fairly good, taking just shimms out until clearance is Ok again??
With Plastigage I can check clearance and shim this thing, or ist the lateral clearance to much a problem ?

cheers


 
Posted : 04/09/2014 10:55 am
(@tallent-r)
Posts: 1825
Noble Member Registered
 

Dave Kostansek and I had a conversation this morning. I forgot to ask if he had a new conn rod to send you. So I'm glad you discussed it.

It is possible that a new or re-babbitted con rod with the "standard" 49.212mm journal, might work. But your crankshaft journal is much smaller. So, perhaps it is worth an attempt.

I assume you told Dave that you need a "right" con rod, for cylinder #7?

The 1930-37 rods will have shims which you can remove to tighten them up. However, you will only tighten them at the top and bottom of the crankshaft journal, not at the sides. But it may be worth a try.

Remember, your car WILL function on 7 cylinders so don't forget that if you CANNOT make a new rod fit, you can still continue driving if you remove the defective rod, and its piston. (See my instructions at http://www.hetclub.org/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=18&id=1482&limitstart=18&Itemid=594#6826 ). This will be your ''emergency'' solution!


 
Posted : 04/09/2014 11:48 am
(@Patrik Heinrichs)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

Hi Jon,
I also talked to Doug from Wildrick rubber parts
and he disagreed on your 1.9375 but was shure about 1,935..something what makes it more reasonable that our crankshaft is still usable..
So I emailed him your comments to read.

As we are going through places like Kasachstan , deep Russia, Mongolia and China the next few 1000s of miles going with a 7 cylinder is not really the right thing, so we will fix it her with a good shop in reach as good as it gets. Even if we have to wait a week for parts...

Attached you will find a pic from the "journal"?? sorry about my spelling don't know all the terms
maybe that helps you to help us.

You Hudson guys are soooo amazingly great, helpfull and connected whatever might happen, if we can make it to the States we will visit each one of you in person !!

Cheers Patrik


 
Posted : 04/09/2014 12:00 pm
(@Patrik Heinrichs)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

Oh beside all the other problems, I have another solution in mind to prevent thinning the oil with gas /air mixture when removing 1 cylinder:
Cant I just block the Inlet manifold of that cylinder ?

As there will be no low pressure from the absent piston (if you remove it with the conrod) it shouldn't be a problem and it is much easier than taking parts from valves, rocker and so on ?

Just an idea or are the ports of cylinder 7 and 6 are fed together by the same port??

Patrik


 
Posted : 04/09/2014 12:07 pm
(@Patrik Heinrichs)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

Oh and about the clearance of the bearing, if you could have seen what they use here as a "micrometer" made in USSR 1976.. so I also tried a simple milimeter scale it is possible that it is even 49,15 or 49,19 mm so I think as the bearing surface on the crankshaft looks quite good we can give it a try!

Patrik


 
Posted : 04/09/2014 12:36 pm
(@tallent-r)
Posts: 1825
Noble Member Registered
 

I am happy you are talking to Doug Wildrick. He is a MUCH better mechanic than I, and he will give you good advice! You should ask him these questions (about blocking off the inlet).


 
Posted : 04/09/2014 1:16 pm
(@Patrik Heinrichs)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

Hi Jon do you have Skype? so we could talk directly??
mine is ddborg
email is heinrichs@ddb.net


 
Posted : 04/09/2014 1:18 pm
(@tallent-r)
Posts: 1825
Noble Member Registered
 

[img] [/img]
[strike]
The car and co-pilot![/strike] OOPS! SHE is the pilot, Patrik Heinrichs is the co-pilot! She is Heidi Hetzer, 77-year-old ex-rally champ in Germany, and member of the H-E-T Club!


 
Posted : 04/09/2014 1:30 pm
(@Patrik Heinrichs)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

Actually SHE is the DRIVER and I'm the Co...

Heidi Hetzer is 77 years "young" and ex ralley champ in Germany


 
Posted : 04/09/2014 5:50 pm
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