Hi Steve

Do it yourself is my view. Get a supply of three or four different gauge wires and various colour coded in each. Luckily I had a friendly auto electrician who gave me a bunch of coiled wire of the colours / gauges needed and I just reimbursed for what I used. You work out the different types / colour codes from the wiring diagram. I tried to keep as close as possible to colour codes from the diagram - did not always work out to be exactly the same - certainly makes things easier when you looking for the correct ends. You can use plastic wiring sheathes, small cable ties or wrap with insulation tape or similar to keep things tidy after they have all been run.

My perspective anyway and I am sure others will have differing views.

Good luck
Alistair

I've done all three- built my own harness, installed a generic custom harness and installed the higher dollar reproduction harness.
If I consider a dollar amount on my labor, building my own and just installing a reproduction harness is a wash and it is tough to do an exact color and wire size match to the original harness. I don't use crimp connectors as I solder all my connections when building a harness or repairing one so that does take extra time but makes for much better-trouble free connections.
If you are not concerned about matching the original wire, I would go with the custom wire harness, just remember, all I have seen are sized for 12volt, not 6v. I install relays for the headlight circuit.

Whichever way you go, remember to map it so the next guy can easily work on it if needed!

Your time is worth money, and you will be spending a lot of time making your own harness. Still, in terms of your outlay for materials only, it will be cheaper than a commercial harness.

(Did you also get quotes from YnZ, and Rhode Island?)

If you go the "make it yourself" route, you have two choices: just use modern type plastic-coated wire and insert it in either a plastic loom, or hold it together with wire ties or black tape. This works, but it doesn't look authentic where it's visible (like under the hood).

The other way would be to purchase the repro wire, which is modern wire with a cloth covering, in many of the original color schemes. Then, run wires through that authentic-looking fabric asphalt coated loom that you can still purchase in different diameters. While this won't win you an AACA trophy, it will still look better (though cost more!) than just using modern wire and taping it together.

I buy rolls of wire if I see them cheap enough around at auctions or wherever, so I had plenty of wire on hand. I had all right colors and correct gage. the wiring harness in the manual is pretty simple and one of the easiest to follow as far as most of the ones I have looked at. I soldered all my connections and heat shrinked over it. just don't forget to slide the shrink on first. I also use a small acey tip with a torch. it goes way faster than a plug in gun. I have less than $100 in my whole harness and did it all myself. I tried to just duplicate the original one. I don't know, I really didn't think it took that long. my time wasn't worth more than 1200 bucks, and I learned a bit about the electrical system aswell.

By the time I chased down actual american made automotive grade wire, not the generic general stuff you buy at the hardware store, or the chinese made crap, then found the proper colors or close in the right guage, then chased down quality wire ends and connectors, I had a bunch of time tied up. That's time I could be using on another car, so my time is worth something to me.
It's hard to beat the price of a quality custom made harness by
http://www.painlessperformance.com/
http://www.haywireinc.com/
http://www.americanautowire.com/
http://www.ronfrancis.com/
http://www.hotrodwires.com/
http://www.rebelwire.com/ (Hamb members get 10% discount)
I think all of the above mark the wires every so many inches to indicate which circuit they go to, makes it easier to chase down a problem.
For me, if I'm building a high point stock car to be judged, than only a reproduction harness is worth it. That's a lot more money but duplicates the factory harness in every way.
http://www.narragansettreproductions.com/
http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/
http://www.riwire.com/

I have been both ways. I have had cars that did not have premade harnesses and they were older and the process was quite simple. I have also purchased a wire harness for my 1954 (brand will not be mentioned) and really I would have been better off making my own. Either way the process is doable but not simple. I would be hard pressed to give advice on the best way to go...

Well, although we hate to admit it , some day you will sell your car. The car with modern vinyl wiring installed vs the original style cloth (coated) wires as when new will cost you a return on your investment, & labor. I, for one, look at this when ever I view potential buys. Y&Z & Rhode Island both use soldered wire terminals that have small number flags on the wire ends. This saves time.... and the correct code that conforms to the original diagrams, making service easier. Besides, the two companies mentioned, sell the heavier gauge wire for the six volt systems of the day. That gives options whether to remain 6 volt ,or go to 12 volt. Unless you buy custom wire for 6 volt( more money), the car can never return to the 6 volt from 12v. The next owner knows this too. Hence, less cash at sale time.

Thank you. I was unaware of these companies. I will check them out.

Thank you for your help on my first Hudson. I ordered a factory body manual today. I figure it will be helpful when I put my floor pans in (both front). This is going to be a great ride.
Steve

Have you already removed the existing wiring? Often, most of the existing wiring is good, and it is only near the ends in exposed places, such as near the terminals on each side of the radiator, that have lost their insulation.

It is possible that you might be able to just peel the harness back until you reach good insulation, then solder short pieces of new wire and proper connectors.

Hi Per
No, I haven't. It's all still in there. The critters have made nesting material out of all the wiring so it's all bare. I am going to have to replace from tail light to headlight. If I was smarter I would probably buy a restored car and be money ahead. But this car called out to me and I have to save it. I think I might go with YnZ, they sent me some pretty good info with a decent price. And, as some forum members have pointed out, someday, this car will be passed along to a new owner.

Steve, I already mentioned that YnZs is a good way to go. I've done that for my pacemaker and works great. My 1950 Commodore 6 coupe, same as yours here, will get the same.

BTW, I'm looking around for doors (know you need the passenger door). Nothing yet. How about your hood? Mines rusted out on front edge. I may have found some NOS ones.

Hi Tim
Im probably going to build a new bottom for my door or I am toying with the idea of sectioning the bottom of a sedan door I think I can lay my hands on. ive got a little rust in my hood too. I will either use a little lead there or if I have to I will cut it out and stitch in a patch.

Hi Steve,

It is great that you are saving the car! It looks solid. I like coupes.

Norman Wheeler had a '51 coupe parts car for sale, however in the latest New England chapter newsletter it appears to have been sold, because his ad doesn't show it any more. Perhaps the car's new owner doesn't need the door. Norm's email is NormBes@aol.com, and his phone is 978 456 3578.

Per