David, this is a standard problem with Hudsons that have "sat" for a long time. Sorry you had to go to the trouble of removing the transmission, because there is a "workaround" for this problem. It consists of mixing up a solvent concoction and pouring it into the clutch (through the standard removable plugs in the flywheel). You then let it sit for a day, rotate the engine (so the solvent spreads around inside the clutch), rotate it a day later, etc. -- all the time pumping the clutch. Most of the time the clutch separates itself from the pressure plate in a day or two of doing this...without "surgery".

Someone will jump in here soon, with the recipe for the concoction. It used to have a dangerous substance in it, one which was banned by the EPA, but an acceptable alternative was found.

So...just hold tight for a while, someone will post the info. you need!

Jon
Thanks for the information. I was going to remove the transmission and pressure plate. If I can find out what to use it will save me a lot of work and trouble.
Thanks Again, Dave

(discussion moved to Hudson sub-forum)

The traditional solvent "cocktail" for freeing Hudson clutches, was: mix 4 parts trichloralethane [I think that's actually "Trichloroethane"] and one part acetone. To flush-drain clutch, refill with flushing solution, start engine, with transmission in neutral, depress and release clutch about 100 times at various engine speeds, drain and refill with clutch fluid mixture.

The problem is that it's hard to obtain the Trichloroethane, which is now considered unsafe for human use. So, you could try some straight acetone instead. Or, research tricholorethane to see what's a good substitute.

R.K. Dittrich, in an old Forum posting, suggested an alternative:

Drain out the oil in the clutch put in 1/2 pint of #1 Kerosene run Engine about a minute or two. Drain out the sludge and let it drain overnight. If it was real sludge up repeat process then put in 1 can Hudsonite or same amount of Dextron#2 not #3 the kerosene I learned from my father who got it from a Hudson mechanic. Worked in our Hudson's from 1947 through 51 cars then dad bought a 55 with dry clutch.

Also, if you hadn't removed the tranny you could try putting some pressure on the crank by hand (use a socket and a metal bar for torque) and wedge it under pressure (be sure car can't roll if it comes loose while youn're not around). Preferably do this after you have wetted the clutch which has gone dry as per the concoction above.

I also have a 1941 coupe (Deluxe, SWB). It had the exact same problem. Just a little momentary pressure after wetting the clutch, and it popped loose immediately, and I've driven the car a fair amount since then (after washing with kerosene and a little clean Hudsonite, then fill with fresh Hudsonite). Eventually, I will replace the clutch as I'm sure it's an old one anyway, and it still has a litte shudder sometimes when starting out. But not bad at all. Before doing this, there was no way the clutch would release from the pressure plate.

Don't use the trichloroethane. You probably can't easily obtain it anyway, and it is an environmental and human health hazard (carcinogen). You won't likely have access to the proper protective gear for that. Just use Kerosene.

I hope you can post pictures of your Hudson soon. I love the 41s, and have 3 of them. The coupe is completely stock and runs, the pickup is halfway through restoration, and the sedan is getting ready for restoration. All were good stock cars and only the pickup no longer has it's original engine.

Have done this lots and works every time

With trans in the car, Drain clutch. Re fill with a pint of diluted ATF/ acitone or kerosene. Dont do any thing for a day. next day rotate fly wheel 90%.
next day do it again, and again, and again.

after acompleate rotational soak, gentaly tow the car around or with freinds rock it back and forth.
once unstuck flush out the clutch out with ATF a few times. Make sure you use the right ATF as stated in a earlyer post.

I would like to thank everyone for the information. I was at my wits end! I will start to try these solutions today. Sounds like I have the remedy for my problem now.
The last owner was in the middle of restoring or repair when he passed away. This coupe had been setting for no telling how long when I found it. Parts were missing so I managed to find the missing parts like starter and generator on eBay. With some work on the carburetor I managed to get the engine running. The old straight eight seems to be strong. Once I get the clutch freed I will finish the body and paint. I already replaced the brake lines and gas tank, the brake shoes are in good shape,
I cant wait to drive it around the block to see what else it needs!
Thanks Again, Dave
PS I will let you all know the progress

Hello David. Why not finish removing the pressure plateand clutch disc?. Remove the 16 bolts and remove the P/Pl. This will enable you to repair the problem right away. After removing it,you can inspect what the condition is and then you will know where you stand. ? If you need any clutch parts,give us a call @ 317-398-4163. Wildrick restoration. We also have most of the rubber parts for your car also. WRPHET.COM Thanks Doug

It worked!!!
We rocked the car back and forth in gear and it popped loose. I would like to thank everyone for their input.
It saved me a lot of trouble
Dave

Rocking it back and forth to unstick the clutch is real hard on the input shaft-[will twist]- as well as all the other components! Don't forget to service it properly. Look foreward to seeing pictures of it completed!